From Giant Beavers To Birds & Bison
The Natural History Of The I&M Canal
Hello, everyone, and welcome to another edition of Canal Stories, a series brought to you by the Canal Corridor Association to celebrate the 175th anniversary of the Illinois & Michigan Canal and the communities that were shaped by its legacy. Today, we’re taking a walk on the wild side as we explore the natural history of the I&M Canal National Heritage Area, as written by Ronald Scott Vasile.
Imagine yourself sitting by a large, tropical ocean. Marine invertebrates swim through coral reefs, warm breezes caress you, and the pungent smell of salt fills your nostrils. This is northern Illinois, 400 million years ago. What is now Illinois was once 20 degrees south of the equator. The limestone (dolomite) bedrock underlying most of northeastern Illinois contains the remains of extinct trilobites and squid-like animals. One can still find fossils in these rocks throughout the National Heritage Area.
Fossils are also common near Morris. In fact, this is one of the most famous fossil localities in the world. 300,000 million years ago, large, swampy forests harbored a variety of life here. The Mazon Creek fossil beds contain the remains of sharks, ferns, cockroaches, dragonflies, and spiders. Also found here is Illinois’ state fossil, the bizarre Tully Monster, a worm-like creature which has never been found anywhere else.
More recently, about 2 million years ago, a series of glaciers, moving down from the north ushered in the Ice Age. Despite the harsh conditions, the landscape was home to many colossal animals. Giant beavers, some weighing as much as 300 pounds, cavorted near rivers, while mastodons and mammoths roamed the plains and forests. Although they are all now extinct, their bones can still be found. The last of the glaciers retreated about 12,000 years ago, a mere blink of an eye to geologists. Lake Michigan, the prairies, our rivers, all were created by the movement of these glaciers.
The Illinois River Valley, which makes up much of the I&M Canal National Heritage Area, has long been a haven for wildlife, and is also an important flyway for many species of birds. While a number of species have disappeared from the region, including bison, bears, and elk, you can still find an abundance of wildlife, from the state-endangered black-crowned night-herons to bald eagles and coyotes.
The prairies that once covered almost half of Illinois are largely gone, but you can still explore remnants of the original prairie landscape at several places in the National Heritage Area. The Goose Lake Prairie State Natural Area in Morris, the Lockport Prairie Nature Preserve, and the Santa Fe Prairie in Hodgkins are just three of the places to see these magnificent tall grass prairies.
Just as significant are the many wetlands that dot the area. Many have been drained for agriculture and other development, but the few that remain provide spectacular glimpses of wildlife. Lake Renwick in Plainfield, once a quarry, is home to huge colonies of black-crowned night-herons, cormorants, and other large water birds. The Heidecke State Fish and Wildlife Area near Morris attracts fishermen and nature lovers from all over the state.
One of the more spectacular efforts in prairie restoration is taking place right now, just south of Joliet. During World War II, the Joliet Army Arsenal manufactured 5.5 million tons of TNT each week, making it the largest TNT plant in the world. Today, the site is now the Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie, which is being transformed into a spectacular 19,000- acre preserve. Midewin comes from an Algonquian Indian word which refers to a Grand Medicine Lodge or healing society. Indian burial mounds on the site indicate that the area has been used by man for thousands of years. At least sixteen state-endangered animals and plants are found here, making it an important natural refuge in an increasingly crowded metropolitan area, and the US Forest Service has recently reintroduce bison (buffalo), the symbol of the prairie.
The many state parks in the corridor provide ample opportunities to see forests, prairies, wetlands, and other habitats. Starved Rock State Park is perhaps the best-known park in Illinois, which brings in thousands of visitors each year. For many, this site connects the area to its Native American past as no other place can. The canyons, forests, and trails are beautiful year-round, and fishermen can try their luck in the Illinois River. Just opposite the park is the Illinois Waterway Visitor Center, which is a terrific place to watch modern boats going through a lock.
There are many trails throughout the Illinois & Michigan Canal National Heritage Area that are perfect for hiking, biking, or strolling. Along the canal itself, the longest is the I&M Canal State Trail, which runs 61.5 miles from Rockdale to La Salle. There are also trails from the north side of Joliet to 135th Street, which includes the Gaylord Donnelley trail in Lockport, 4 miles of trails near Lemont and the Quarries, and the 11 mile I&M Canal Bicycle Trail loop in Willow Springs.
That concludes today’s Canal Story. Thank you so much for joining us as we continue our journey through the history of the Illinois & Michigan Canal. If you’ve enjoyed this episode, leave a like, drop us a comment, and be sure pass it along to your family and friends. We’ll see you again very soon.